FASHION WEEK 2011

amsterdam fashion week: winde rienstra

(images via peter stigter)
we’re finally closing out amsterdam fashion week with the s/s 2012 collection which most moved me: that of winde rienstra.  as the site fashion nl explains, she is a dutch designer of slow fashion and, having participated in several green fashion initiatives as well as the competition last season, homegirl’s present work is a continuation on that theme.

working with such materials as wood, string, knit fabrics, and wires, ms. rienstra draws inspiration from architecture, nature, and spacial design.  the resultant pieces are often quite conceptual, the sculptural elements mixing with the wearable and often, as nrc points out, gleaning comparisons with the better-known dutch dramatic art-fashion designer, irisvan herpen.

colours remained soft, with virtually all pieces presented in shades of white, cream, and nude, while hair and makeup helped to achieve a certain futuristic-cum-approachable effect.  indeed, casting nieuws suggests that the white makeup gave girls an alien aesthetic, while the winding braids played up on something a little more bohemian and casual to pair with the complex science fiction-y fashions.

interestingly, as off-putting as some of the designs might at first seem (peter stigtercomments that they “were not all very wearable”), it was ms. rienstra herself, taking her bowat the end of the show, which introduced a more realistic side to the clothes.  some have complained that female designers are a sort of ‘last model on the catwalk’ effect, but this need not always be a negative; indeed, by pairing her eye-catching beige belt (third from top) with a simple black shirtdress, the designer showed how her pieces might be taken from catwalk to chic reality.

in the end, that made for the kind of presentation which makes me so happy: designs which challenge what we understand of the industry and might not be worn in their entirety out into the world (lest you be exceedingly brave), but might also be easily adapted for such (see good additional shots at dam style).  besides, drawing on nature as inspiration is a refreshing move from the too-oft quoted short list of chic artists and musicians we always hear name-dropped at these things.  let’s hope two things: that we see much more of ms. rienstra in the future and that she resists the magnetic fingers (and fashion soul-sucking elements) of lady g.

(see a short show video here)

August 9, 2011   6 notes

amsterdam fashion week: hunkemöller

(images via peter stigter)
perhaps needless to say i’m ready to be on to blathering about my beloved copenhagen fashion week (as i always am with any new event) and leaving the past behind us, but we’ve got a couple more shows from the netherlands to quickly scope out before sliding on to the next, and dutch lingerie brand (and much-approved vicky’s secret alternative) hunkemölleris up with their latest, not as good as  f/w 2011, but better than s/s 2011, s/s 2012 efforts!


as peter stigter explains, the show was divided into two sections, with lingerie filling the first part and swimwear closing the presentation out.  fashion.blog.nl notes that this season marked the first assortment of bridal lingerie (which we can expect to see each subsequent season), and lingerie subgroups included ‘modern brigitte bardot’, ‘hot pink’, ‘flowers everywhere’, ‘golden touch’, and ‘oriental beauty’, while those of swimwear were titled ‘fashion jungle’, ‘shapes in cobalt & macrame’,  ‘copacabana beach’, ‘tropical fever’, and ‘ethnic animals’.


classic colours such as white and black played heavily throughout, but nude, aqua, hot pink, teal, purple, pale gray, and metallic silver were also prominently featured, while an assortment of floral prints and calicos, zebra stripes, tropical fruit motifs, psychedelic ‘70’s-esque patterns, stripes, snakeskin, leafy prints, and tribal motifs also walked the runway.  silk, satin, tulle, and lace were among the show’s materials.


amica comments that embellishments were a big factor in providing interest to the range, and indeed, the rosettes, draping, macrame, ruffles, bows, rhinestones, feathers, cut-outs, and ruching helped accentuate the variety, making for what seemed a greater assortment of pieces than any swimwear or lingerie show might traditionally offer.  however, hunkemöller certainly didn’t skim on options, providing, as styleranking notices, the traditional assortment of bikinis, one-piece suits, monokinis, and stranger swimsuit choices alongside kimonos, rompers, bra-and-panty sets, teddies, nighties, robes, maxi skirts and dresses, and step-ins.


hunkemöller traditionally infuses their shows with at least a little vintage flavour, and while that was still present today (particularly in the lingerie sections), i couldn’t help but feel that the range was especially closely tied with what the brazilians are doing of late and that the bright colours and prints were more in line with the trends than the brand’s own aesthetic that we’ve seen more strongly in prior seasons.  and perhaps if they’re making a push to be competitive with vicky’s secret, it makes sense.  however, i couldn’t help but feel a bit disappointed with the lack if i did nevertheless quite appreciate several individual looks.  and being so in tune with the times, i have no doubts it will sell.  hopefully that won’t encourage the label to entirely turn their back on their prior offerings and scent, for those of us who love the retro and glamour (that vs has never even vaguely evoked) in our days.


(watch a brief show video here)